Join us as we guide you through Claudia's perfect placement.
Here is what you can expect to learn:
Master your embroidery machine
Improve your hooping skills by doing multiple hoopings
Make your embroidery look seamless
Re-position designs within the hoop
Marking grid for '1st stitch placement'
'Sew through a design' without thread.
This a redwork type design with lacework style fills digitized by Claudia Dinnell.
Hoop and grid are a requirement to create this 'Boot'itful Summer Bouquet
Follow pattern instructions for cutting and marking
Prep fabric with 'Terial Magic' before ironing 'Shape-Flex' on to back of fabric
Saturate each separate block with Terial Magic: Squeeze out excess Terial Magic (I work in a bowl) Lay flat to let dry. Press/iron each block flat and smooth.
This process is mandatory! It will help eliminate the stretch in the block. The fabric should be very stiff.
Polymesh Cutaway Stabilizer:
Cut the Polymesh 3” wider (on all sides) than the size of the block.
Block may need two sections of the Polymesh pieced together to get the correct size: overlap those sections by 2”-3”. (Block 14” square: Polymesh 20” square)
Center the (interfaced) fabric on the (pieced) Polymesh. Use adhesive spray to fuse the Polymesh to the block. The fabric should be smooth and lay flat. Each fabric block will have a 3” border of Polymesh surrounding it on all 4 sides. This extra border is important when hooping especially when the fabric is smaller than the hoop.
Baste block to Polymesh Stabilizer
Stitch Field: 6"x8" - Hoop sizes 6"x10", 8"x12" and 10"x14" (no magnetic hoops)